At this moment in time I know that I want to produce a publication based on Vogue. Whether it be the history of Vogue's editors, the history of covers wordwide or even the history of 1920's/1960'2 Vogue for example I am not too sure but I am going to carry out extensive research in order to come to a secure conclusion before I start designing.
History
The first issue of Vogue saw the light in 1892 in America.
In 1909 the magazine was acquired by Conde Naste Publishers. The magazine’s volume became thicker and its main focus was turned on women. Naturally, the price was raised as well.
In 1916, when the First World War made impossible Vogue deliveries to the Old World, the printing was started in England. This decision proved to be successful and 1920 the first issue of French Vogue was released.
In1932 the American Vogue for the first time ever had placed a color photography on its cover (earlier it was exclusively given for drawings). Since that time the World’s best photographers - Irwin Penn and Guy Burden, Richard Avedon and Norman Parkinson, Helmut Newton and Peter Lindberg - became Vogue’s contributors.
In 1960-s the American Vogue under the leadership of Diana Vriland had become the symbol of a new era – more creative, emancipated and sexy. (Diana Vriland biography on Wiki).
Another important period in American Vogue history began in 1988, when Anna Wintour became its Chief Editor. Her talent, will and efficiency, reflected in The Devil Wears Prada movie, had finally turned Vogue into Nr1 Fashion Magazine of the World, not just reflecting fashion trends, but effectively shaping them. (Anna Wintour biography on Vogue.ru and Wiki).
First issue of Russian Vogue was released in September 1998. In August 1998, when economic crisis broke out in Russia, the advertisements of a new magazine with Keith Moss and Amber Valetta on its cover, and the headline logo “Finally in Russia” was perceived by many as a bad joke. Overcoming all perils, Vogue had emerged not just as Russia’s leading fashion magazine, but as a flagship of national glossy media, a benchmark of a glossy monthly magazine of absolutely different, international class. Among photographers who worked for Russian Vogue were Helmut Newton, Peter Lindberg, Steven Mizel and Paolo Roversi. Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell, Claudia Shiffer and Natalya Vodyanova posed for it as models. Texts were written by Pyotr Vail and Alexander Genis, Tatyana Tolstaya and Alexander Timofeevsky.
Exclusively for Russian Vogue photo-sessions with great contemporary Russians Renata Litvinova and Ingeborga Dapkunaite, Nikita Mikhalkov and Oleg Menshikov,Victor Pelevin and Zemfira were arranged.
Every June since 2001 during the Moscow International Film Festival Vogue gives its Award for Best Styling in a movie.
VOGUE philosophy
Every month 16million female readers impatiently await upcoming release of a new Vogue, 665 thousands of them in Russia alone.Vogue is often nicknamed as the Bible of Fashion. In December 2006 the New York Times wrote, re-phrasing the words o Voltaire: If there was no Vogue, it must have been invented!
Through its more than 100-year history, neither World Wars, nor global crises could shatter Vogue’s reputation. Firstly, because there’s nothing in this World able to take away from woman, wherever and whenever she could be, a desire to be the most fashionable and beautiful. Secondly, because Vogue became synonymous of top-notch professionalism for designers, writers, artists and photographers.
In Russia Vogue has been published for the last 11 years and the credit for last decade’s change in Russian women, becoming much more open -minded, good-looking and self-sufficient - should also be given to Vogue.
Princess Grace Kelly uses one of her two favorite Hermès bags to shield her pregnancy from the prying eyes of the paparazzi. Though the bag in its original form had been known as the Sac à Dépêches since 1935, it is renamed “the Kelly” after photographs of her favorite battered bag make it into Life magazine.
The Hermès Birkin bag, named after model and muse Jane Birkin, is a favorite “from grandes dames to hip-hop moguls’ wives to hot young Hollywood,” as W would later report. It takes hours to make one Birkin, according to Pascale Mussard, the niece of company chairman and CEO Jean-Louis Dumas.
Prada’s black, parachute-nylon backpack is one of the first new bags to be counterfeited in Hong Kong. Trimmed in leather, the minimalist, practical, subtly labeled backpack transforms Prada from a relatively small-beans label to a major fashion force.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquière introduces the Classic for Balenciaga.
Fendi’s Baguette bag is featured on Sex and the City. Along with pashmina scarves and Manolo Blahnik stilettos, it is the ultimate in high-1990s chic.
Dior’s Saddle Bag becomes a hit after young stars like Gwen Stefani start carrying it.
Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton teams up with designer Stephen Sprouse to splash silver spray-painted graffiti over the famous “LV” logo bags. Nicolas Ghesquière introduces the distressed-leather Lariat bag for Balenciaga; adorned with studs and tassels, it will become a favorite of Indie rock ’n’ roll girls like Kate Moss, Chloë Sevigny, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.
Collaboration between Japanese artist Takashi Murakami and Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs results in the Multicolore, Cherry Blossom, and Cerises lines of Murakami bags that are featured in the spring 2003 show. Limited-edition product shipments are all presold; the waiting list reaches the tens of thousands; and estimated sales of line (which finally hits retail outlets in March 2003) will be $345 million, or 10 percent of Vuitton’s total revenues.
Murakami’s multicolor design is accepted as the new Vuitton monogram. LVMH, the parent company, spends $13.6 million to battle counterfeiters. Hermès files suit against designer Steven Stolman’s hugely popular “Jelly Kelly,” a tongue-in-cheek rip-off of the more-chic-than-ever original, done in the soft PVC plastic familiar from 1980s jelly sandals. Dooney & Bourke launches the “It Bags” line of handbags; 500,000 will be sold this year. They are so similar to Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Multicolore that the French fashion giant will later bring Dooney & Bourke to court. After four years, a Manhattan federal judge will rule in Dooney & Bourke’s favor: The American brand had copied, but not technically stolen, intellectual property, and the monograms could not be mistaken for each other.
Vogue reports on the 50 handbags with a collection of 50 outfits that Marc Jacobs has shown for Louis Vuitton’s Spring collection. Writes contributor Plum Sykes, “There is no It bag for spring 2004. There are Its, plural, which makes bag-buying either more or less complicated, depending on your point of view.” Katie Hillier, designer of the Marc by Marc Jacobs line, says, “It’s not just about an evening bag and a day bag now. There are more categories of bag. Examples given are the yoga bag, sneaker bag, beach bag, big bag, and inside-out-multipocket bag. The commercial possibilities seem endless.
Stores can’t keep Chloé’s Paddington bag in stock. Net-a-Porter sells 376, priced at $1,380 each, within 36 hours of posting its new stock.
Andrea Lee writes in The New Yorker, “For the past several years, we have been living in a gilded age of handbags: a rococo time of profligacy, opulence, heights of stylistic genius and depths of vulgarity.
The Times of London sounds the alarm that a backlash is afoot: “Prices of bags have, in the past two years or so, vaulted from the ludicrous to the ‘Are they having a laugh?’ category. The New York Times reports on a expected downturn of 15 percent in the U.S. handbag market, saying, “This is considered a disappointment, because the growth is about half as strong as the category’s 28 percent gain in 2004. Marc Jacobs releases the Patchwork Tribute, a limited-edition design made up of pieces from fifteen LV bags. Some call it “Frankenstein’s monster.” Others claim Jacobs is making “an expensive joke. Samantha Cameron, creative director of British luxury label Smythson—and wife of M.P. David Cameron—launches the austere, dainty Nancy, an antidote to ostentatious bags.
A January Wall Street Journal article claims It bags are out, due to a weaker global economy: “The It bag isn’t important any more,” Stephanie Solomon, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s, tells the newspaper. “It’s all about looking different from your neighbor.”
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