Fashion as
Photograph
(The body of
fashion photography)
The
relationship between photographer, model and product. How that power
relationship of representation reflects on photography.
Ghost
mannequin - The body becomes invisible
First
permanent photographs - Made my Nicephore Niepce in
France
An image
captured on a basic camera
One of the
first permanent images
Louis
Daguerre, Boulevard de Temple, 1838/9
Chemical based
photography
Street
view
A man having
his boots cleaned in the street - Long exposure time there is no traffic
recorded on the street
First
photograph of a person
William Henry
Fox Talbot
Invented a
fixing process
Calotype -
process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical
processing today)
UK in 1840,
referred to as "the second invention of...
Lady Alice
Mary Kerr's Portrait of WIlfrid Scawen Blunt, 1870
Virginia
Oldoini, Countess de Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun,
1956
The idea of
photographing people and fashion is there immediatelyShe is the model and director in the action and in the relationship
She sets up these almost theatrical scenes acting out parts
There is a vast amount of pictures taken of her
Sexual overtone to it in a way that there are lots of masks used
Acting out her own political history
Photographed
by Pierson 1861-1867
Pushing
boundaries of what was sexually acceptable at the timeAnkle view
Age of the
fashion magazine
Improvements
in printing process means that photographs can be reproduced in
magazinesFirst ten years of the 1900's
Paul Poiret
(1879-1944)
House of Worth
(Charles Worth, father of haute couture)
Freedom from
corsetry
Signature
shapes - hobble skirt, harem pants
Clothing cut
along straight lines
Influences by
antique dress
Edward
Steichen photographs Paul Poirets designs for Art et Decoration,
1911
Collaboration
between designer and photographer
Pictoral
photographer
Work featured
in art magazine
Featured the
style of the day
Soft grainy
rendering to make it look like brush work
Adolf de
Meyer, 1920's
Still got
things coming through characteristic of pictorial approachWoman posing in whistful romantic way
Staring in thought
Almost seems to be acting out a character
Natural theme
Martin
Munkacsi, early to mid 1930's
People are
testing out technical capacities
Things like
film speedPhotographing a model in a very active pose
Fashion photograph
Element of blur involved
A sense of sport image
He was a news and sports photographer
Looking after the body
Edward
Steichen in high fashion
Switches from
the pictorialist style to a style that also encapsulates
modernism
A real
concerntration of the use of abstract shapes
Becomes a
triangle
Careful use of
light in this image
Exposure of
the print and fine detail is using the camera for its own
qualities
Things to
don't get in other mediums
Ability of
the camera to have everything sharp
Photographers want to work with people who are celebrities of the day
La Mode Pratique, 1938
Fashion magazine cover
A lot of Vogue covers were still drawn
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar
Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920's and 30's
Hounngen-Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet)
Hoyningen-Heune, 1931 Madame Vionnet
Draping of the dress follows the shape of the body
Angel like feel to the image where the model is given a mythical status
Represents mythical beauty
Look at fashion images as something which is unreachable to the ordinary person
Horst P Horst Costume for Salvador Dali's "Dream of Venus" 1939
Some of it is underwater
Surrealism
Semi-naked figures floating around
Reflects the interest that surrealists have in dream life
Reflect fantasy and reality
Costume is an erotic fantasy
Cecil Beaton (1904-1980)
Reflects social status
People who have that unattainable lifestyle
British Vogue and Vanity Fair
Photographed and was a member of the 'Bright young things'
Diarist
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930's
Designs sets
Working with the most prominent actresses at the time
He has placed her in the backstage scenery
Styled the photograph in the wings
Get the impression of the star not in the limelight
He reminds us that by showing us the edges of the screen that this is a glimpse into a glamorous world that we may not have access to otherwise
Spotlighting that throws the shadow on the backdrop
Dramatic scene where she is acting a part
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
Spent most of his life in bed
Very bohemian characters that Beaton is friends with
Queen Elizabeth II in 1968
Royal photographer
Commisioned to photographed the queen
Uses an approach of an environmental portrait
White room photographed in is a reflection of her status
Opulent setting
Making the royals into a glamorous set at the time
Lifestyle and wealth that comes with fashion
Lee Miller (1907-1977)
Photographed by Steichen
American photographer and fashion model at age 19
Set in a studio set to look like an opulent living room
Model at a young age then takes up photographer
Socialises with avant-garde artists of the day
Often photographed by Man Ray
Involved in the surrealist movement in photography
She also photographed harsh documentary (war)
Louise Dahl Wolfe
From 1936 to 1958 she was a staff fashion photographer at Harper's Bazaar
Married to a sculptor
Night bathing, 1939 - taken the model outside at nighttime with this lighting that illuminates her body and the status in the foreground
Comparison between still life and live model
Doubling up
Reference to a classical figure
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
Supermodel of the time
Contrast between foreground and background
Use of exotic location starts to filter into fashion photography
1940's and 50's
Colour photography
William Klein, 1950's
Move towards bringing documentary style into fashion photography
He is a documentary photographer known for use of movement and blur
As a street photographer he is very much in the crowd
Very carefully designed
He translates this into his fashion photography
Informality playing with real life
Photographers want to work with people who are celebrities of the day
La Mode Pratique, 1938
Fashion magazine cover
A lot of Vogue covers were still drawn
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar
Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920's and 30's
Hounngen-Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet)
Hoyningen-Heune, 1931 Madame Vionnet
Draping of the dress follows the shape of the body
Angel like feel to the image where the model is given a mythical status
Represents mythical beauty
Look at fashion images as something which is unreachable to the ordinary person
Horst P Horst Costume for Salvador Dali's "Dream of Venus" 1939
Some of it is underwater
Surrealism
Semi-naked figures floating around
Reflects the interest that surrealists have in dream life
Reflect fantasy and reality
Costume is an erotic fantasy
Cecil Beaton (1904-1980)
Reflects social status
People who have that unattainable lifestyle
British Vogue and Vanity Fair
Photographed and was a member of the 'Bright young things'
Diarist
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930's
Designs sets
Working with the most prominent actresses at the time
He has placed her in the backstage scenery
Styled the photograph in the wings
Get the impression of the star not in the limelight
He reminds us that by showing us the edges of the screen that this is a glimpse into a glamorous world that we may not have access to otherwise
Spotlighting that throws the shadow on the backdrop
Dramatic scene where she is acting a part
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
Spent most of his life in bed
Very bohemian characters that Beaton is friends with
Queen Elizabeth II in 1968
Royal photographer
Commisioned to photographed the queen
Uses an approach of an environmental portrait
White room photographed in is a reflection of her status
Opulent setting
Making the royals into a glamorous set at the time
Lifestyle and wealth that comes with fashion
Lee Miller (1907-1977)
Photographed by Steichen
American photographer and fashion model at age 19
Set in a studio set to look like an opulent living room
Model at a young age then takes up photographer
Socialises with avant-garde artists of the day
Often photographed by Man Ray
Involved in the surrealist movement in photography
She also photographed harsh documentary (war)
Louise Dahl Wolfe
From 1936 to 1958 she was a staff fashion photographer at Harper's Bazaar
Married to a sculptor
Night bathing, 1939 - taken the model outside at nighttime with this lighting that illuminates her body and the status in the foreground
Comparison between still life and live model
Doubling up
Reference to a classical figure
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
Supermodel of the time
Contrast between foreground and background
Use of exotic location starts to filter into fashion photography
1940's and 50's
Colour photography
William Klein, 1950's
Move towards bringing documentary style into fashion photography
He is a documentary photographer known for use of movement and blur
As a street photographer he is very much in the crowd
Very carefully designed
He translates this into his fashion photography
Informality playing with real life
Brian Duffy Jean Shrimpton on the Edgeware Road, 1960
Encapsulates liberation of the female who has a part time job
Helmut Newton (1920-2004)
Well known photographer for the nude
The power body
On display for our pleasure
Inclusion of his wife is his way of answering back the criticisms that have been made about his work
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
Reducing the body just to the part which is important
Leg and shoe
Surrealism
Controversial character
Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, published 2002
Collection of photographs of the hip hop scene of New York city
published retrospectively
He is also part of this culture
He lives in this area
Street fashion at the time
ID magazine vs The Face
reflect fashion, culture, music
Juergen Teller (1964)
German photographer
Photos in The Face, Vogue
Has worked with Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs
Works with musicians
Annie Morton, 1996
Corrine Day (1965-2010)
Model and photographer
Photographed Kate Moss
Adobe Photoshop
2003
Graphics editing program
Digital image
Terry Richardson
Book Terryworld published 2004
US photographer
Has worked for Vogue, Vanity Fair, ID magazine, Harpers Bazaar
Sisley, Diesel, Mango, H&M
Nick Knight
UK photographer
Futuristic
Shots for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine
Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90's and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior
Fashion Blogging
Democratises fashion photography
Anyone can write about fashion
Tavi Gevinsons "Style Rookie"
She creates her own celebrity
People have access to glamorous world
Streetstyle Copenhagen
Photographing people in the street
Asking people about their fashion interests
Poppy Dinsey, 2011
Photographs herself in her outfit everyday and posts in on her blog
wiwt.com - What I Wore Today
More about the document of the personal side of fashion
Company
Whole issue dedicated to 20 or more fashion bloggers
Celebrate 'real' and 'street' fashion
Exacitudes - Ari Versluis (photographer) and Ellie Uyttenbrock (stylist)
Exact and attitudes mixed
Document global fashion
Neighbours, Rotterdam 2008 and Casettes gang, London 2008
Telling us that individuality is almost not possible in a fashion world
We just align ourselves to a type of fashion group
No comments:
Post a Comment