Showing posts with label Design Context. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Design Context. Show all posts

Thursday, 24 October 2013

OUGD501 - Design Context: Identity Lecture Notes

Identity

Lecture summary

  • Introduce historical conceptions of identity
  • To introduce Foucault's discourse methodology
  • Place and critique contemporary practice within these frameworks, and to consider their validity
  • Consider postmodern theories
Theories of Identity
  • Essentialism (traditional approach)
  • Our biological make up makes us who are are
Physiognomy

The more vertical the line the more intelligent we are meant to be.


Phrenology


Cesare Lombraso (1835-1909) founder of positivist criminology which is the notion that criminal tendencies are inherited.

Physiognomy legitimising racism


Hieronymous Bosch (1450-1516)
Christ carrying the Cross, Oil on panel 1515

Historical phases of Identity

Douglas Kellner - Media Culture: Cultural Studies, Identity and Politics between the Modern and the Postmodern, 1992

  • pre modern identity – personal identity is stable – defined by long standing roles
  • Modern identity – modern societies begin to offer a wider range of social roles. Possibility to start ‘choosing’ your identity, rather than simply being born into it. People start to ‘worry’ about who they are
  • Post-modern identity – accepts a ‘fragmented ‘self’. Identity is constructed
Pre-Modern Identity

Institutions determined identity

Marriage, The Church, monarchy, 
Government, the State, Work 

 ‘Secure’ identities 
 
related institutional agency
with vested interest
Farm-worker ………. landed gentry
The Soldier ……. The state
The Factory Worker… Industrial capitalism
The Housewife…… patriarchy
The Gentleman…. patriarchy 
Husband-Wife (family)….. Marriage/church

Modern identity
19th and early 20th centuries

Charles Baudelaire – The Painter of Modern Life (1863)

Thorstein Veblen – Theory of the Leisure Class (1899)

Georg Simmel – The Metropolis and Mental Life (1903)


Gustave Caillebotte (1848 - 94), 
Le Pont de l’Europe, 1876

Baudelaire – introduces 
concept of the ‘flaneur’ 
(gentleman-stroller)

Veblen – ‘Conspicuous 
consumption of valuable 
goods is a means of 
reputability to the 
gentleman of leisure’

Georg Simmel

‘The feeling of isolation is rarely as decisive and intense when one actually finds oneself physically alone, as when one is a stranger without relations, among
 many physically close persons, at a party, on the train, or in the traffic of a large city’ 

Simmel suggests that:
because of the speed and mutability of 
modernity, individuals withdraw into 
themselves to find peace 

He describes this as 
‘the separation of the subjective from the 
objective life’

Postmodern identity
'Discourse Analysis'

Identity is constructed out of the discourses culturally available to us.

What is a discourse?

‘… a set of recurring statements that define a particular cultural ‘object’ (e.g., madness, criminality, sexuality) and provide concepts and terms through which such an object can be studied and discussed.’ Cavallaro, (2001)

Possible Discourses

Age
Class
Gender
Nationality
Race/ethnicity
Sexual orientation
Education
Income
Etc., etc., etc., etc., etc.,

Class
Nationality
Race/ethnicity
Gender and sexuality

Otherness - Based around a history written by middle-upper class white european men.

Class

Humphrey Spender/Mass Observation, Worktown project 1937 
  • Analyse how the other peple live. The upper class.
  • Assumption of working class people at play etc
Martin Parr, New Brighton, Merseyside, from The Last Resort 1983-86
  • People will money are interested in his work
  • People lying in litter wouldn't buy this book
  • They also wouldn't go and look at the exhibition of his work
Martin Parr, Ascot, 2003
  • He is documenting Ascot where people drink champagne and get dressed up
  • Is it about lower class and upper class
Martin Parr, Think of Germany
  • Sums up Germany eating a sausage
Alexander McQueen, AW 1995-6
  • He claims it isn't to do with the rape of women it is about the Scots and English
Vivienne Westwood AW 1993-4
  • Tartan clothing - Is it representing Scotland?
Chris Ofili No Woman No Cry 1998
  • The first important black painter
  • Picked up by Andy Warhol
  • Grows up in Manchester
  • Goes to Art college
Gillian Wearing, from signs that say what you want them to say and not signs that say what someone else wants you to say 1992-3
  • Won the Turner prize for this
  • Stereotypes of identity?
  • Volkswagen created an ad campaign based on it
Alexander McQueen
  • When he uses black models he uses animal prints, leather and suede
Emily Bates dress created using her own hair
  • Mary Magdalene has red hair which is where the judgments come from today
  • Installation piece which is why it is a long dress
  • Collects hair from hairdressers
Gender and Sexuality
  • Can see legs in imagery - shocking at the time (Flapper 1925)
  • Androgyny 1920s style from Punch magazine
  • Gillian Wearing 'I don't want to look like a boy'
  • Masquerade and the mask of femininity (Cindy Sherman, 1977-80) Takes these stereotypes of characters in films who are fragile, taken from a male perspective
  • Gillian 'Lynne' Sex change
Post Modern Theory
  • Identity is constructed through our social experience.
  • Erving Goffman The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (1959)
  • Goffman saw life as ‘theatre’, made up of ‘encounters’ and ‘performances’ 
  • For Goffman the self is a series of facades 

  • ‘In airports and other public spaces, people with mobile-phone headset attachments walk around, talking aloud and alone, like paranoid schizophrenics, oblivious to their immediate surroundings. 
  • Introspection is a disappearing act. Faced with moments alone in their cars, on the street or at supermarket checkouts, more and more people do not collect their thoughts, but scan their mobile phone messages for shreds of evidence that someone, somewhere may need or want them.’ 
  • Andy Hargreaves (2003), Teaching in the Knowledge Society: Education in the Age of Insecurity, Open University Press, page 25

Thursday, 17 October 2013

OUGD501 - Design Context: Consumerism Lecture

Consumerism: Persuasion, Society, Brand, Culture

Aims

  • Analyse the rise of the US consumerism
  • Discuss the links between consumerism and our unconscious desires
  • Sigmund Freud
  • Edmund Bernays
  • Consumerism as social control
Century of Self - Adam Curtis
Theoretical film
2002

No Logo - Naomi Klein
1999

Sigmund Freud (1856-1939)
  • New theory of human nature
  • Psychoanalysis
  • Hidden primitive sexual forces and animal instincts which need controlling
  • The interpretation of dreams (1899)
  • The Unconscious (1915)
  • The Ego and the Id (1923)
  • Beyond the Pleasure Principle (1920)
  • Civilization and its Discontents (1930)

Freud's model of personal structure

The consciousness and mind (everything that we think about) but only the tip of the iceberg. We think our actions are conscious and rational but most of them are driven by what is beneath, the area which he calls the Id. This is where all of the primitive desires and instincts are held. 


1930
  • Fundamental tension between civilisation and the individual
  • Human instincts incompatible with the well being of community
  • The Pleasure Principle - If we are allowed to act out of these primitive desires (sex and death) momentarily once the desire has been satisfied we are dosile and happy and content

For Freud the first world war was a testament to all of his theories. It was the epitome of this release on a grand global scale.

Edward Bernays (1891-1995)
  • Press Agent
  • Employed by public information during WW1
  • Post war - Set up 'The Council on Public Relations' - The birth of the term PR - Started in America post WW1 with Edward Bernays
  • Birth of the PR
  • Based on the ideas of Freud (his uncle)
  • Crystallizing Public Opinion (1923)
  • Propaganda (1928)
  • 'Torches of Freedom' - Any kind of business can succeed if you relate it to any of the animal instincts (repressed)
The 1929 Easter Day Parade
  • Bernays was employed at a Tobacco company to get women to smoke. He created a publicity stunt and paid debutantes to walk down the parade. The cigarettes were seen as torches of freedom.
  • This made women want to smoke because in the public consciousness it had become a symbol of power and sex


1924 - American mass production came about
  • Product placement
  • Celebrity endorsements
  • The use of pseudoscientific reports
Linking a celebrity makes something automatically look like it is part of a celebrity lifestyle. He could represent the celebrities so they would gain money from the campaigns that he would also gain money from. Politicians got involved as well. The president of America was known as being an unpopular boring man who employed Bernays to make him seem interested and gain more supporters. He was re-elected on the back of the campaign.

Fordism
  • Henry Ford (1863-1947)
  • Transposes Taylorism to car factories of Detroit
  • American was investing in more technology
  • Requires large investment, but increases productivity so much that relatively high wages can be paid, allowing the workers to buy the product they produce
  • If productivity increases then the profits increase as well so this created high wages
The Model T Ford 

The importance of brands and the emergence of branding comes about. This is the starting point for our modern consumer culture. Products marketing themselves as if their products are more special and distinguished from the rest. The start of a situation where business themselves feel as though they have to do something else to make their product sell. The system of PR and marketing very quickly became very popular and successful. 

The reason the Aunt Jemima Pancake Flour didn't sell at the start is because at this focus group what people were saying (housewives) felt guilty and ashamed because they felt they were cheating and felt they were less of a good mother or less of a good wife. What they did instead was change their product so you had to crack an egg into it and then it became incredibly successful. This was based on the psychological analysis from the focus groups.


1909

This advert has got two women talking in it. An image where it is totally targeted at men and equating the act of owning a car to the act of power. Power over women, the knowledge that you are in control of your wife, in control of your destiny, and Edward was very proud that he was one of the first people to link sexuality to owning a car. 


Culture starts to feed off 'needs'. Chanel for example is a society based on desires. I really want a car because I want to be free. I want a perfume because I want to be like the movie star in the adverts. This fantasy figure.If you don't manufacture a false desire people will stop spending. Incredibly clever marketing.


1957 - Marketing hidden needs

  • Selling emotional security
  • Spend more than you actually need to feel secure (fridge freezers)
  • The emotional security of knowing that you have food and can provide for your family
  • Selling reassurance of worth
  • Selling ego-gratification
  • Marketing companies realised that they could target housewives
  • Selling ego-gratification
  • Selling creative outlets
  • Selling love objects
  • Selling sense of power
  • Fashion reaffirms the illusion of who we are
Blow in her face and she'll follow you anywhere - ego gratification


1920

A new elite is needed to manage the bewildered herd 'manufacturing consent'. This points to a new way of governing society that will actually stop world wars.If we can feed the bewildered herd, the illusion that all of their desires are taken care of, you will have an easily controlled society.

Russian Revolution 1917


They had a social revolution where the workers overran the wealthy.

October 24th 1929 'Black Tuesday'
  • The acceleration of profit for the benefit of the country 
  • Stocks fell and loads of people lost their jobs
  • The bottom fell out of every industry and this started the great depression
Roosevelt and the 'New Deal' (1933-36)
  • On the back of a promise to introduce systems of welfare and benefits, better pensions, retirement ages, a mass scheme of job creation and an investment in industry
  • Rather than a big business for the benefit of society this was about governmental control of society
  • This was really unpopular for the big businesses, they were anti-roosevelt
The World's Fair
  • An exhibition 3 miles wide 6 miles long with buildings made for it, seemingly about all that is great about American culture
  • Effectively a big piece of propaganda
  • Futurama model of how the world would look if you replaced your faith in business and this consumer culture
Democracitiy - The idea of individual freedom with big business (featured at the world's fair)

Conclusion

  • To what extent do the government rule our policies?
  • Freedom is a very peculiar term
  • You are not what you own
  • Consumerism is an ideological project
  • We believe that through consumption our desires can be met
  • The Consumer Self
  • The legacy of Bernays/PR can be felt in all aspects of C21st society
  • The conflicts between alternative models of social organisation continue to this day
  • To what extent are our lives 'free' under the Western Consumerist System?